Frequently Asked Questions
Find answers to the most common questions about solar energy, our calculator, and how we work
Solar panels convert sunlight into electricity using photovoltaic cells. That electricity powers your home immediately. Extra electricity gets sent to the grid (you get a credit on your bill). At night or on cloudy days, you pull electricity from the grid. It’s simple technology that’s been around for 60+ years. Modern systems are highly efficient and require minimal maintenance.
Probably yes. Even homes with some shade, older roofs, or less-than-perfect angles can go solar. Our calculator specifically assesses your situation. Generally: If you have a south-facing roof and 4+ hours of direct sun daily, solar works well. Partial shade? Still often viable—just smaller systems. The best way to know is to get your personalized analysis from our calculator.
Not necessarily. If your roof is in good shape (15+ year lifespan remaining), you can install solar on top. If your roof needs replacement within 5 years, you might want to do that first. Most installers will assess during your quote. Most roofs are fine. If there’s any doubt, get a roof inspection ($100-300) before solar installation.
Yes. Germany and the UK are #2 and #3 in global solar adoption—and they’re cloudier than most of the US. Cloudy days = less production, but panels still work (20-30% capacity on overcast days). Winter means lower output. But the economics still work if your electricity costs are high. Cloudy state residents still see positive ROI, just with longer payback periods.
Snow slides off solar panels (they’re smooth and angled). If it doesn’t, it melts quickly (panels get warm in sun). In snowy regions, systems are typically angled differently to prevent snow accumulation. Not a real issue—snow states have plenty of solar installations working great. More snow = good news because panels perform better in cooler temperatures.
25-30 years, typically. Most come with 25-year warranties guaranteeing 80%+ output. After 25 years, they don’t stop working—they just produce slightly less (degradation is ~0.5% per year). Industry standard: Plan for 25-year payback, then 5-10 years of bonus free electricity. Inverters (the converter box) last 10-15 years and can be replaced.
In 2026, expect $2.50-3.00 per watt installed AFTER state incentives (note: federal credits expired). Average 10kW system: $20,000-30,000 after incentives. But incentives vary dramatically by location—which is why our calculator is so important. A system in California has different incentives than one in Texas. Get your personalized number from our calculator.
Buy: You own it. Pay upfront or get loan. You get tax credits. You save the most long-term. You’re responsible if repairs needed.
Lease: Someone else owns it. You pay fixed monthly. They handle maintenance. You save less, but less risk. No tax credits (they own it).
PPA (Power Purchase Agreement): Like lease but you pay per kWh produced (not fixed monthly). Good for variable production.
Most people: Own if they can finance. Lease if they want simplicity. PPA if they want to avoid fixed commitments.
Yes. Multiple options: solar loans (specifically for solar), home equity loans (use your home equity), home equity lines of credit (HELOC), personal loans, leases, PPAs. Solar loans are easiest (no home equity required). Rates: 4-8% typical. Your credit score matters. Most people finance because it’s cheaper than paying all cash upfront.
Yes. Studies show solar adds roughly 4% to home value (a $300k home becomes $312k). Appraisers see solar as an upgrade. When you sell, that value transfer makes it attractive to buyers. Financed systems: System goes with house or you pay it off before selling. Studies show homes with solar sell faster too.
Yes. Most lenders are fine with solar (increases home value). Some require lender permission (they have lien on home). Check with your mortgage company first. Usually: No problem. Most solar loans can be approved alongside mortgages because solar actually improves your property value and cash flow.
Depends on your state + local utility. Federal credit expired 12/31/25. But most states have credits/rebates. Some states: up to $5,000+ additional incentives. Our calculator shows YOUR specific incentives based on your location. That’s the whole point—incentives vary wildly by state, so generic answers are useless. Get your personalized analysis.
File Form 5695 with your income tax return. Consult a tax professional (we can’t give tax advice). Generally: You report system cost, subtract rebates/utility incentives, then calculate the credit (percentage varies by state) and claim on taxes. The IRS website has instructions. Most tax preparers are familiar with solar credits.
Solar Renewable Energy Certificate. Some states pay you per kWh your system produces. Think: Your panels make electricity → You get a certificate → Sell certificate for cash. Not all states offer it. If yours does: Extra money. Check your state’s renewable energy program for details. New Jersey’s SREC program, for example, can be very lucrative.
When your panels produce extra electricity, it goes to the grid. The utility gives you credit on your bill for that electricity. Net metering rates vary wildly: Some states: Full retail credit (great). Others: 50% of retail (OK). A few: Wholesale rate (less good). Check your state’s policy—it dramatically affects ROI. This is why location matters so much for solar economics.
Sometimes. If you get an installer rebate from the utility, you may need to subtract it from system cost before calculating tax credits. Ask your installer. The tax pro handling your return will know. Basically: Total system cost – rebates = basis for tax credit. It’s nuanced, which is why having a good tax preparer matters.
Varies. Some incentives (especially new equity-focused programs) have income limits. Others don’t. Our calculator notes income-limited programs in your area. Check with your state’s solar program office if unsure. Some states are specifically targeting low-income households with enhanced incentives.
DSIRE.org (Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency). Comprehensive. Free. Official. Updated regularly. Our calculator is based on similar data. If you want to do your own research, DSIRE is the gold standard. You can also contact your state’s solar program office directly.
Then you’re relying mostly on net metering + long-term electricity savings. Still worth it if electricity costs are high or rising (they are). ROI just takes longer. Our calculator shows both scenarios. Some states with low incentives still have great solar economics because electricity rates are high or rising quickly.
1. Get analysis (you’re here!)
2. Get 2-3 installer quotes
3. Review contracts carefully
4. Apply for incentives
5. Permit process (installer usually handles)
6. Installation (typically 1-3 days)
7. Inspection + activation (utility approves)
8. Enjoy 25 years of savings
Actual install: 1-3 days (depends on system size). Permitting/approvals: 2-6 weeks (varies by city). Total time from signing to electricity flowing: 6-12 weeks typical. Some areas are faster. Some are slower. Your installer will give you a timeline.
Yes. Your city/county requires building permits (electrical + structural). Installers handle most of this. You may need to sign a few documents. Takes 2-6 weeks depending on how backed-up your permitting office is. Some counties are much faster than others. This is factored into the total timeline.
Minimally. Installers work during business hours. Roofing can be loud. They’ll give you a schedule. Most homes: 1-3 days of activity. Minimal mess. Power not interrupted (they wire before turning on). Most people report it’s way less disruptive than they expected. You can still live in your home during installation.
Almost none. Annual inspection recommended. Cleaning (if very dusty area): Optional but helps efficiency. Most: Leave them alone. They’ll produce for 25 years. Inverters (the converter box) might need servicing once, but that’s rare. Panels are essentially maintenance-free. That’s one of the biggest advantages.
Installers will note it during assessment. You can choose to repair before solar (cleaner process) or they can install around it. Some installers offer bundle deals. It’s a conversation during quote phase. Better to address roof issues before solar than after.
No. Your solar system increases home value (~4%). When you sell, that value transfers. If system is financed: You either pay it off or buyer assumes loan. Either way: Win. Studies show homes with solar sell faster and for more. Worst case scenario: You broke even or profited from solar before moving.
Rooftop panels blend in pretty well. Newer designs are sleeker. Some people love them (status symbol of environmental commitment). Others prefer micro-inverters (less visible). There are aesthetic options. Check Google Images for systems in your area. Aesthetics matter, so look at what’s possible in your neighborhood.
Equipment still works. Warranties transfer (manufacturers back them, not installers). But: Choose established installers (check BBB, reviews, years in business). Avoid fly-by-night companies. Reputable installers have been around 10+ years. Your warranty is with the equipment manufacturer, not the installer.
No. Modern systems are safe. Inverters do generate EMF, but within regulatory limits. You might notice slightly improved power quality (grid is dirty, solar filters it). Thousands of systems near you = no problems reported. This is a non-issue with modern equipment.
Panels are tough. Tested to withstand golf-ball-sized hail. Rare: Hail damage happens but insurance usually covers. Hurricanes: Panels are installed to withstand wind. If roof flies off, system is least of your worries. Modern installations in high-wind areas pass rigorous testing.
Yes! That’s the standard model. You stay connected to the grid. You use solar first, grid as backup. At night: Grid provides electricity. Simple system. You get the best of both worlds—solar production + grid reliability.
Electricity prices are rising faster than inflation (historically 2-3% annually). Every year you wait = more cost you miss. BUT: If you’re moving in 2 years, lease might make more sense than buy. If you’re uncertain: Getting this analysis helps clarify. No pressure to decide today—this info helps you decide whenever you’re ready.
Still have questions?
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Or reach out at: hello@mysolarroi.com